Be Fruitful

I've always made meals out of my late summer fruit binges. And this year, I was especially captivated by Italy's traditional berry and melon risottos.

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Beyond Rag├╣

I was fascinated by Italy's traditional regional pasta dishes. But I may have taken it too far by making tortelli cremaschi.

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V is for Vexing

It seems obvious now that rare, elegant viognier would never be the next chardonnay. But at its best, it can be a breathtaking, deeply intellectual experience.

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Ein, Zweigelt, Drei

Austrian red wines are extremely likable, but also a little bit obscure. Who knew that enjoying them would make me a wild-eyed radical?

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Schnitzel Happens

Eating veal in America can be...uncomfortable. But for me, there are few dishes more comforting than wiener schnitzel.

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Greek to Me

I like obscure wines made from "godforsaken grapes" like xinomavro and agiorgitiko. And I don’t care what Robert Parker says.

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The Meal as Manifesto

Eating moss, kelp, weeds, raw shellfish, and dirt at Copenhagen's Noma, the most provocative (and many say "the best") restaurant in the world.

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