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JOURNEYS: FEATURES
Gray Areas Somalia had no government, and passport stamps didn't matter there. It was as if I was traveling in time to when borders were just suggestions.
Haitian Dreams I traveled to Haiti with the best of intentions. I found myself at a cock fight, a dodgy casino, and, for many hours, a bar that overlooked a trash-strewn beach.
Tour of Duty I tried getting into Iraq the easy way first, by applying for a tourist visa. I eventually found a work-around: Iran.
The Serenader In Mexico, a street musician must deal with drunks, little sleep, and the cold. All for $12 a night.
Mengele in Paraguay Like many Nazis, Mengele fled to South America after the war. In Paraguay, ghosts of Germany remain.
By Graeme Wood

The Border I was in Cote d'Ivoire to interview a rebel commander of the civil war-torn country's upper half. I was staying in Mali to the north. But I learned that in Africa, such distinctions aren't always clear.
A Game Journey Horse meat, moonshine, and musk. The French are dismissive of American cuisine, but getting to the primal roots of their food isn't so pretty. Our correspondent joins a wild boar hunt.
Greetings From Abkhazia Abkhazia was the seaside playground of Stalin and Gorbachev. Today it's empty beaches, crumbled buildings, and diseased monkeys.
By Graeme Wood

A Year in Japan In Japan, detail and nuance are expected and appreciated. A series of illustrations featuring white-gloved taxi drivers, plastic-wrapped fruit, sumo wrestlers, and pink cell phones.
The Answer Was No Victor wanted to flee Cuba, but the only place he'd been was the battlefields of Angola. “Do you think you’ll make it to Spain soon?” I asked. He looked at me wearily.
Death of an Adventure Traveler On assignment in Thailand for an American travel magazine, I discovered that whitewater rafting and helicopter drops are nothing next to Mr. Benny's jewel smuggling and CIA translation work. I returned to find him...
Crisis Is Magic In Colombia, I've toured a cocaine factory, flirted with anti-guerrilla soldiers, eaten bad meat, and joined Ronald McDonald in saying "no" to  kidnapping. After a month here, I realize that sometimes things aren't as bad as they seem.
This Is Not a Cruise Is responsible travel possible on Semester at Sea? Well, reports our correspondent from the lido deck, yes and no.
A Lonely Heart in Bhutan The second worst travel experience I ever had was on a misbegotten trip to a marvelous place that I had returned to for all the wrong reasons.
   

JOURNEYS: COLUMNS
Grand Tour
Dispatches from around the world.
A Day at the Beach I wanted to know what it was like to run an amusement park in Wildwood, New Jersey; all I got were some insurance brochures and a bank keychain.
By Jesse Smith
The Golf Courses of Berlin Why don't Germans sleep in double beds? Why does so much travel writing depend upon peculiarity and cliché?
By Michael Gorra
Sixty Hours to Mexico City The flight to Mexico City only takes a few hours. That's no fun, so I took the bus. Sixty hours later...
By Justin Nobel
The Quiet Italian Few locals live in Venice. The buildings are dark at night. But in the early morning, signs of city life can be found.
By Michael Gorra
Island Life Île aux Aigrettes was the Dodo's last home. Now scientists are trying to spare other animals there the same fate.
By Mark Daffey
The Museum of Contraception and Abortion Vienna's Museum of Contraception and Abortion, which Austrian schoolkids visit on field trips.
By Patti McCracken
Seismic Center I came to Antarctica as a garbage man. Six years in, I was sent to groom runways in the desolate East.
By Jason Anthony
Jurassic Tennis Long before tennis, there was Jeu de Paume. In Paris, some still play the 700-year-old game.
By Rolf Potts
How to Eat a Pet As a child, I had tea parties for my guinea pig. As an adult traveling in Peru, I ate one.
By Lynn Levin
What Happens in Burma... I was among 600 Americans who recently visited Burma from a cruise ship. Some say it wasn't the right thing to do. I disagree.
By Alden Jones
On the Trail of Orangutans I traveled deep into the jungles of Borneo to confront my fears and meet an orangutan, face-to-face.
By Barry Neild
A Walk in Florence A walk through the gardens, villas, and streets of Florence that inspired Henry James.
By Michael Gorra
Le Musée du Fumeur A visit to a smoking museum in Paris, just as the French kick the habit.
By Rolf Potts
Most Viewed
- At a Crossroads. By Kate T. Williamson

- Light Show. By Morgan Meis
- Great Expectations. By Jessa Crispin


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