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QUESTIONABLE TASTES
Journeys through the world of food and drink.
V is for Vexing It seems obvious now that rare, elegant viognier would never be the next chardonnay. But at its best, it can be a breathtaking, deeply intellectual experience.
Ein, Zweigelt, Drei Austrian red wines are extremely likable, but also a little bit obscure. Who knew that enjoying them would make me a wild-eyed radical?
Schnitzel Happens Eating veal in America can be...uncomfortable. But for me, there are few dishes more comforting than wiener schnitzel.
Classic, Deconstructed Carbonara is more than just pasta with bacon and eggs. On a strange trip, I discovered the perfect rendition.
Greek to Me I like obscure wines made from "godforsaken grapes" like xinomavro and agiorgitiko. And I don’t care what Robert Parker says.
Old Europe on the Cheap When will people finally discover Portuguese wines? A memoir on my patient, two-decade-long wait.
Carmén-Whère? Rediscovering carménère in a sneak peek of Planet of the Grapes: Alternative Reds.
The Meal as Manifesto Eating moss, kelp, weeds, raw shellfish, and dirt at Copenhagen's Noma, the most provocative (and many say "the best") restaurant in the world.
A Modest Proposal Amid a Bordeaux backlash, does the world's most famous wine region have anything for the 99 percent?
How Do U Say... The App Store abhors a vacuum, which is why I found myself in Spain with an iPad asking, "Is this the right road for liability?"
Nebb' and Flow Nebbiolo is a finicky grape from Italy's foggy northwest. And its wine is very expensive. Usually...
We'll Always Have Germany Contrary to popular belief, the sky is not falling on German beers.
The Wine of Beers Saisons: beers even a wine snob will love.
Low Blow Not every brew needs to be a high-alcohol, extreme monster. Session beers have pleasures all their own.
Fancy Schmancy If you think we're in a rather austere moment, then you weren't at the 56th annual Fancy Food Show.
On Big and Scary Wines
I've listened to the complaints about high-alcohol wine for years. And then I tried a few that I liked.
Travel Channels Video game narratives mirror those of travel writing. But can Nintendo truly ever replace Norway? Playstation, Paris?
Hotel Munch For Munch, summer nights were a miasma of heartache, melancholy, and unrequited love. How does drinking the new Edvard Munch Premium Aquavit compare?
Port Authority Port makers want their U.S. market to grow, but you try selling delayed gratification to a bunch of Americans.
On the Nose Can you learn to taste wine from a $130 kit? Well...
Fruit-Forward and Fungus Do you trust your own taste? Can you describe truffles? Do you wear purple?
The Lifestyle Beat There's life. And then there's lifestyle journalism.
A Game Journey Horse meat, moonshine, and musk. The French are dismissive of American cuisine, but getting to the primal roots of their food isn't so pretty. Our correspondent joins a wild boar hunt.